Sanbang 산방

Shepherd’s purse and wild chive over soft tofu, two sheets of fried glutinous-rice paper.

Cured salmon roe on a thin tart, on steamed barley, under spring petals.

Bream bones simmered clear, a slice of the fillet and a sprig of young greens.

Octopus legs grilled over oak charcoal on spring greens, with a purée of roasted sweet pumpkin.

This year’s spring rice cooked to order in the stone pot and served by the bowl, with our three-year doenjang soup.

Five-flavor berries steeped cold and set with mung-bean starch: sweet, sour and a little bitter at once.

Cucumber sliced paper-thin, three days in a cold brine with pear, a few sprouts on top.

Brown croaker, the summer fish of Korea, seared skin side down, on young greens with dill.

Cold buckwheat noodles under sea urchin, chives and toasted grains.

Glazed three times over charcoal, with toasted sesame and pickled ginger.

Abalone, cured mackerel, octopus and tuna over rice and young lettuce, with chogochujang to mix in.

Watermelon, melon and green grapes, with cold milk poured over at the table.

A single piece, fried light, with a green sauce of perilla and toasted perilla seed.

Autumn mackerel at its richest, scored and grilled skin side down until it crackles.

Duck breast smoked over pine needles, kabocha purée, leek and a chili relish.

Short rib braised overnight in soy and pear until it leaves the bone, under young greens.

This year’s rice cooked to order in a black clay pot, with chestnut, glazed pork and scallion.

A whole soft-ripe persimmon with honeycomb, almonds and walnuts.

One Tongyeong-style oyster on crushed ice, with a drop of citrus and crisp shallot.

Pan-seared winter cod in a clear broth of aged soy, with cucumber and radish.

Striploin grilled over binchotan, with shishito, mushroom and a cauliflower purée.

Sweet winter napa cabbage simmered soft in an anchovy and kelp broth.

The winter way: buckwheat noodles in cold beef broth and November’s dongchimi, with brisket, radish and egg.

Whole kumquats simmered in honey for two days until they shine, with a cup of tea.